To find some old-world calm in Frankfurt, go to Sachsenhausen, the quarter to the south of the river (which includes the Museumsufer). Alt Sachsenhausen – the old part, around the Affentorplatz (to the southeast of the Museum für Angewandte Kunst) – has plenty of welcoming bars and restaurants, and is famed above all for its folksy taverns serving the traditional drink Apfelwein (apple wine), known locally as Ebbelwei or Ebbelwoi. This is served in a variety of forms according to its age and fermentation, often mixed with fizzy water, and is traditionally accompanied by a plate of cheese with bread and onions ('Handkäs mit Musik'), or a pork chop with sauerkraut ('Rippchen mit Kraut').

Ebbelwei is something of a cult-pursuit in Frankfurt: a tourist tram called the 'Ebbelwei-Express' offers one-hour trips around the city – with complementary apple wine.

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